Diary of John Quincy Adams, volume 1

Monday 27th. JQA Monday 27th. Adams, John Quincy
Monday 27th.

This morning at six o clock our ears were assaulted by “Tis time to get up.” If the Guide had not have kept his time the bells of the Church opposite us would have kept the time for him, for about a Quarter of an hour after we got up they begun to ring and rung for about a half an hour. Our Muletiers all went to Mass but we were not much obliged to them for it. However, let them do as they please, for I beleive that is the best way. Mr. Lagoanere 20says that there are two convents for men (the Dominican and the Franciscan) and two Nunneries for women. The one which is opposite us is the Dominican. Mr. Lagoanere also says that St. Yago1 is the Capital of this province by name because the body of St. James was buried there and because the Archbishop is there at present but Corunna is actually the Capital And the Governor of the province and the audience are there. The building in which the archives are kept, is over against us. It is a large building and is not unlike one of the Colleges at Cambridge. The orders of Nuns I do not know; they have besides these a parish Church, but the Carriages are ready and I must go. There is but one Nunnery of women which is of the order of Augustines. At 8 o clock Mr. Lagoanere took leave of us all and we set out. We pass'd several prodigious mountains and passing over one of them the Axletree of one of our carriages broke and we were obliged to let it stay to have the Axletree mended. We proceeded on and stopt at a Miserable Cottage. In the Chamber Where they put us there was straw, chests, grain, barrels, and chestnuts but however I expect to see more of this yet. We saw a very high rock and on the top of it? a Chappel which our guide told us was dedicated to St. Martin. Rain all day with intermissions. We could go but four Leagues to day.

1.

Santiago de Compostela, located about 30 miles south by west of La Coruña, well off the route to France traveled by JA and his party. From medieval times Santiago was one of the most frequently visited places of pilgrimage in western Europe (JA, Diary and Autobiography , 2:418; 4:217–218).

Tuesday 28th of December. JQA Tuesday 28th of December. Adams, John Quincy
Tuesday 28th of December.

This morning we got up at 6 and were stirring at 8. Mr. Dana, Mr. Allen, and Mr. Thaxter rode on Muleback. Pappa, Charles, and I rode a little ways in the Carriage and then got out and walk'd. At 2 o clock we arrived at a little village calld Baamonde where we din'd . At about o clock P M We set out from to go as far as which is about leagues off of one Another and I beleive we shall lodge there to night.

Wednesday 29th of December. JQA Wednesday 29th of December. Adams, John Quincy
Wednesday 29th of December.

This morning at about 8 o clock we set away from Baamonde and travell'd on. At twelve o clock we arrived at a Place call'd Ravadan Rabade. We stopped there and eat a bit of Bread and 21 image Cheese. This Village of Ravadan is by the Side of the River Minho Miño which empties itself in the Sea in some port in Portugal. At about half after twelve o clock we got into our Carriages and Proceeded as far as Lugo where we arrived at half after Three. We have several Times fell in with a Spanish Marquis who has treated my Pappa with a Great deal of Politeness. We are now at the same lodgings with him. We have came 12 Miles a day ever since we left Corunna. There are a great number of English Prisoners here. This afternoon two Irish Gentlemen came, and left their names and about a half an hour after they came here themselves, and very politely invited us all to lodge at their house, but we could not. They stay'd about half an hour and went away. At about 9 o clock P M they sent two very fine pies and 2 bottles of Wine Which was very polite of in them.