March 31. Tuesday. 1778. Lying in the River, near Pouliac; a twenty four Gun Ship close by Us, under French Colours bound to Dominique. A dark misty morning. I was anxious to enquire, who was Agent for the United States of America at Bourdeaux, at Blaye &c., who were the principal Merchants on this River, concerned in the American Trade? What Vessells French or American had sailed, or were about sailing for America? What their Cargoes and for what Ports? Whether on Account of the United States, of any particular State, or of private Merchants French or American? But I could get no satisfactory Intelligence on any of these Subjects.

This Morning the Captain and a Passenger came on board The Boston from The Julie, a large Ship bound to Saint Domingo, to make Us a Visit. They invited Us on board to dine. Captain Palmes, Jesse Deane, John Quincy Adams and myself, went, and found a very pretty Ship, an elegant Cabin and every Accommodation. The white Stone plates were laid, a clean Napkin in each and a Cut of very fine Bread. The Cloth, Plates, Servants, all things were as neat as in any Gentlemans House. The first Dish was a French Soup. I had heard of Soup Meagre, which in America as well as in England had been Words of Contempt: but I thought if this was Soup meagre, it was a very respectable thing. Then a dish of boiled Beef, as I called it, having never heard the Word Bouillie. Then the Lights of a Calf dressed one Way and the Liver another. Then roasted Mutton. Then fricasseed Mutton. A good Sallad and something very like Asparagus, but not it. The Bread which had been baked on board was very fine. We had then Prunes, Almonds and the most delicious Raisins I ever saw; Dutch Cheese, then a Dish of Coffee, then a little glass of French Liqueur. Wine and Water and excellent Claret with our dinner. All these Appearances and provisions were luxuries to which We had been Strangers for many Weeks. None of our Hosts who entertained Us so hospitably understood English: None of Us French, except Dr. Noel who acted as Interpreter. The Conversation of the French Gentlemen among themselves was lively enough: but to the rest of Us it was a dull and silent Scaene.... On the Quarter deck I was struck with the Capons, Cocks and Hens in their Coops the largest I ever saw and the Number was as remarkable 34as their Size and beauty. While at dinner We saw a Pinnace, with half a dozen genteel People, go on board the Boston. Mr. Griffin one of our Petty officers, came in the Pinnace, with Captain Tuckers Compliments desiring to see me. We took leave and returned to our Ship, where we found very polite Company consisting of the Captain of another Ship bound to Martinique, and several of the Kings Officers bound out. One was the Commandant of that Island.

March 31. Tuesday. 1778. Captain Palmes was sent to Blaye, in the Pinnace, to the Officer at the Castle, in order to produce our Commission, and procure an Entry and Pass to Bourdeaux. Palmes returned full of the Compliments of the Officer to the Captain and to me. I shall not repeat the Compliments to me. But the earnest request to Captain Tucker was that he would salute the Fort with thirteen Guns, which was accordingly done.

All the Gentlemen We have seen to day agree that the American Commissioners Franklin, Deane and Lee, had been received in great pomp by the King, that a Treaty had been concluded. And they all expected War every moment.

This afternoon We ascended this beautiful River, the Villages and Country Seats appearing on each Side of Us all the Way, to within three Leagues of the Town.

April 1. Wednesday. 1778. This Morning Mr. J. C. Champage,1 Merchant and Broker of the Marine at Blaye, came on board to make a Visit and pay his Compliments. I learned from him that of the first Grouths of Wine, in the Province of Guienne, there are four Sorts of Grapes, bearing the names of Chateau Margeaux, Hautbrion, La Fritte2 and Latour.

This Morning I took Leave of the Frigate Boston, and excepting a short Visit or two on board, before I satt out on my Journey to Paris never saw her afterwards. She was injudiciously ordered to Charleston to defend that City, which a dozen such Ships would not have been able to effect, and was taken by the English.3 I went up to the City of Bourdeaux with my Son and Servant, Mr. Vernon, Mr. Jesse Deane who were all my Suite, and Dr. Noel as an Interpreter, in the Pinnace. When We came up to the Town We had the good Luck to see Mr. McCreery and Major Fraser, on the Wharf. McCrery I had known in America. It had happened that I had ridden a long Journey with him. He came on board our Boat and conducted Us up to his Lodg-35ings, where We dined, in the fashion of the Country. Among many other Things We had fish, and Salad, and Claret, Champaign and Mountain Wines. After Dinner Mr. Bondfield, whom I had known also in America, and who was agent at this place, invited me to a Walk. We went first to his Lodgings where We drank Tea, and then walked around the Town and went to see the new Comedy, a most splendid Building erecting for the Amusement of the Town. After this We went to the Opera, where the Scenery, dancing and Music aforded to my Curiosity a chearful and sprightly entertainment, having never seen any Thing of the kind before. Our American Theatres had not then existed even in Contemplation.

After the Opera We returned to Mr. McCrerys Lodgings where We supped.