Diary of John Adams, volume 3
Sat off, at ten from the Arms of Amsterdam with Mr. John Thaxter and Mr. Charles Storer. Refreshed our Horses at Loenen a Village, half Way to Utrecht, passed the Villages Bruykelen, Massen and Suylen.1
It is 8 hours, Stones, or Leagues from Amsterdam to Utrecht. The Village of Suylen and its Neighbourhood is full of Brick Killns. The Clay is found in that Neighborhood, and they burn the Bricks with Turf, Wood and Coal. Put up at Utrecht at the New Castle of Antwerp, which is now kept by Oblet, who speaks English very well, altho born at Leyden. The grand Canal, which runs through this Town is a great Curiosity. The paved Street upon each Side of it, is a covered Way, or rather, the Cover of a Cellar. The Cellars of the Houses are all continued out, under this Paved Street, to the Canal. And there are Doors through which Men pass from the Canal, under the Street into the Cellars of the Houses and e contra from the Cellars to the Canal and the Boats, Barks, or Schuits in it. The city maintains the Pavement but the Vaults underneath are maintained by the Proprietors. Oblet tells me, that the Spanish and Prussian Ambassadors were here, a few days ago. Came in an hired Carriage. That 30 Lord Stormont and his Lady were once here. Travelled only with 2 Men Servants. Very near. My Lady had not so much as a Maid, with her. Peterson is much hated. Oostergo makes a damned noise to day, about the fleets not going to Brest.
Modern maps give the names of these villages as Breukelen, Maarssen, and Zuilen.
From Utrecht to Gorcum is 8 Leagues. Here we dined, at the Doele kept by Mr. Van Dongen. He told Us that as soon as We should get out of Town We should come to the River, near the Junction of the Maes with the Wahal, a Branch of the Rhine, that if We looked up the River We should have a full View of the Castle of Louvestein. We had accordingly a fair View of it. It stands upon an Island in the Middle of the River. There is an high and large square Tour of a Church at no great Distance from it. Gorinchem or Gorcum is one of the 18 Cities of the Province of Holland.
We dined at Gorcum, but as it was impossible to reach Breda before half after 6, when the Gates of that City are shut, my Servant rode forward on Horseback, and went to the Prince Cardinal a publick House, the Keeper of which applied to General Marsdam, the Governor, so that when We arrived at near 9 O Clock, We found an officer and a Guard at the Gate, who said he had orders to admit Mr. Adams the Ambassador of America. I gave the Guards 4 Guilders on the Spot and sent em 2 ducats afterwards.
The 4 last Leagues being Sand, were tolerable, but the former 4 being Clay were very bad—muddy, and deep.
Rising early this Morning and ringing for a Servant, was told that my Servant and most of those of the House were gone to Mass.—The Name of the Keeper of the Prince Cardinal is Van Opdorp.
Spent the whole day in travelling from Breda to Antwerp, without eating or drinking. The Distance is only ten Leagues. Put up at the grand Laboureur, opposite the Church with the Statue of the Prophet Elias upon it. The Coaches in great Numbers were driving backwards and forwards upon the Place Demier, as upon the Boulevards at Paris. It was Sunday Evening, and this March and Countermarch was for Pleasure and for Health.
Thus four days have been compleatly consumed in passing from the Hague to Antwerp, and We have seen nothing and conversed with 31 Nobody, so bad have been the Roads and so cold and rainy the Weather.—Reached Antwerp at Night and lodged at the Gran Laboureur upon the Place de Mier, where the Emperor lodged last Year and left his Portrait, which We saw, and an Inscription, in the Entry. Joseph 2d logé ici
This Evening all the Carriages of the Town were parading in the Place de Mier, full of Ladies and Gentlemen as on the Boulvards at Paris.